INTRODUCTION:

Hair Dye:

A dye is natural or synthetic substance used to add a color to or change the color of something. ‘blond hair dye,. Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes and from plant sources -roots, leaves, etc.⁵ Hair dye is oldest recipes that has been used by ancient lifestyle in world used to color the hairs. Hair dye products available in market may be Natural, Synthetic or semi synthetic.

The hair dyes used which are synthetic in order to change hair color has high frequency and due to their mechanism of action it may cause damage to structure of hair. So Herbal drugs without any adverse effects are used for healthy hair¹². Herbal medicines are plant derived materials or product obtained from stems, seeds, leaves, flowers, roots use for human benefits which contain either raw or processed ingredients from one or more plants. The need of herbal based natural medicines is increasing fastly due to their natural goodness and lack of side effects well – known Ayurvedic herbal drugs traditionally used as hair colorant and for hair growth are amla, Indigo, Henna, Reetha, methi seed Natural dyes are environmentally friendly, low toxic and less allergenic. Catechins, flavonoids, ascorbic acid which show natural antioxidant property are involved in structure of herbal dyes Herbal hair dyes can be used to treat a variety of conditions, including dandruff, premature graying, and head lice. Natural hair dyes, which are safe to use, color hair using only natural materials rather than chemicals. They also address the issue of scalp and hair cuticle damage. There are numerous formulations on the Indian market. While the majority of the formulations contain more than five herbal medications, a small number of them have fewer than five.¹²

OBJECTIVES OF THE HERBAL DYE:

1. To bring more natural dye extraction process together on single paper

2. To show the fastness properties of many types of natural dye.

3. To show different method of extraction suitable for different sources.

Advantages of Herbal Hair Dye

Color your hair who no chemical and more natural ingredients.

1. Natural hair color covers the gray hair with no side effects.

2. Deeply conditions and nourishes hair strands from the core.

3. Able to color and perm.

4. Moves like natural hair⁵

Disadvantages of Herbal Hair Dye:

1. More expensive.

2. Needs more maintenance and care.

3. Requires styling.

4. More susceptible to sunlight fading and environment damage.

5. May be heavier in weight than synthetic wigs, which may lead to itching.⁵

Side Effects of Hair Dye

1. Headache

2. Asthma.

3. Hair fall.

4. Allergic reaction.

Types of Hair dye:

1. Temporary Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing:

Temporary dyes, also known as non-oxidative dyes, had a shorter stay period on the fiber and were removed after the first shampoo wash because the coloring process was done without the use of an oxidizing agent. Because of their large molecular weight, temporary coloring molecules only deposit on the hair's surface; they do not enter the cortex. Temporary hair color does not have the ability to lighten or whiten hair because it does not bleach the original hair strand.

Temporary colors are used to generate fashion colors; they are often applied after the original hair color has been lightened by one shade; if the original color is black, the color is not visible. Temporary colors are used to conceal or alter the color of hair, however they are not effective in providing 100% gray coverage. Only 15% of the gray hairs are temporarily covered by color because the greater molecular weights prevent it from penetrating the cortex.⁵

2. Semi-Permanent Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing: Products that don't employ hydrogen peroxide to produce the color and dye hair that lasts for four to six shampoos are referred to as semi-permanent hair dye. Nitro aromatic amines and aromatic amino nitro-anthraquinone dyes are examples of semi-permanent chemicals; they diffuse into the hair and bond to it, but they do not adhere permanently ⁵.

3. Permanent Oxidative Hair Dyeing: Since this category offers more permanent dyeing efficacy and resistance to shampoo washes and other environmental elements like drying, friction, light, and others, permanent hair dyes are frequently utilized. About 80% of hair colors available fall into this category, which comes in any shade and can cover up to 100% of white hair strands. Additionally, the combination of the ammonia hydroxide and oxidizing chemicals can result in both light and dark natural hair colors. The primary distinction between demi-permanent and permanent hair dyes is the alkalizing ingredient employed; the former uses mono-ethanolamine, which has a limited color-lightening capability. When an oxidizing agent is present, complicated interactions between precursors result in the production of color in the mixture⁵.

Fig. Mechanism of Hair Dyeing ⁹

Mechanism of hair Dyeing:

By Chemical Dye: Ammonia and/or peroxide, which are bleaching chemicals used in the majority of chemical dyes, damage the outermost layer and cause capillaries to form in the hair shaft. The chemical color of PPD, OPD, and MPD then fills these capillaries, penetrates the inner layer, and stays there permanently. The hair shaft is affected in the same way by the subsequent application. This causes hair to become weaker, rougher, and permanently damaged³.

By Natural Dye: Natural dye coats the hair shaft to give it color. It gives hair body and adheres as a semi-permanent color. Your hair becomes stronger and more shiny with the subsequent application, which repeats the same action³.

Role of Ingredients used in the Formulation of Herbal Hair Dye

A. Henna:

Botanical name: Lawsonia inermis

Fig. Henna powder

Because it contains tannins, a plant ingredient that gives tea its rich shade, henna also prevents hair from prematurely becoming gray. Vitamin E, which is present in henna, helps to soften hair. The plant's natural leaves are high in antioxidants and proteins, which promote healthy hair ². A reddish-orange substance found in the plant's dried leaves. Gallic acid and flavonoids, two additional henna ingredients, function as organic mordants during the coloring process. The henna paste's proper viscosity for adhering to hair is provided by carbohydrates.

B. Amla:

Botanical name: Emblica officinalis

Fig. Amala

Amla-derived berries improve calcium absorption, promoting stronger bones, teeth, nails, and hair. It strengthens the hair follicle, keeps the hair color vibrant, and delays the onset of graying. The active ingredient in hair care products is whole fruit. The fruit's vitamin C binds with tannins to prevent it from being destroyed by light or heat. Tannins, minerals like calcium, phosphorus, iron, and amino acids are also abundant in this fruit. Hair loss is lessened and hair growth is aided by the fruit extract. Amla's antioxidant and antibacterial qualities may aid in fostering the development of strong, glossy hair ⁴.

C. Reetha:

Botanical Name: Sapindus trifoloatus

Fig. Reetha Powder

Vitamins A, D, E, K, saponin, carbohydrates, unsaturated fats, and glue are all abundant in reetha. Reetha is beneficial for promoting hair growth and reducing dandruff. Concentrate of organic product coat functions as a distinctive cleanser and is used as a hair chemical in homemade shampoos. Reetha, often known as soapnuts or washing nuts, have long been considered standard hair care products. When used on a regular basis, the saponins in this plant give hair a firm, glossy, and shining appearance². Reetha extract can help eliminate dandruff and encourage hair growth ¹³. Fruit coat extract is utilized in herbal shampoos as a hair cleaner since it functions as a natural shampoo. When taken regularly, the saponins included in this plant help to make hair healthy, glossy, and shining ¹⁶.

D. Shikakai:

Botanical Name: Acacia concinna

Fig. Shikakai Powder

Shikakai is a remarkable spice that is typically found in India's tropical forests. Shikakai is a robust, everyday homegrown herb that is used by people of all ages. Because of its many natural qualities, shikakai, also known as "Acacia Concinna," has been used as a hair care ingredient for a long time to clean people's hair. Because it feeds the hair different vitamins and accelerates development, shikakai is also known as the hair natural product. Shikakai is an excellent cleaner substitute because of its strong cleansing qualities².

E. Tea powder:

Botanical Name: Thea sin

Fig. Tea Powder

Due to its abundance of phytoestrogens, copper, selenium, polyphenols, and melatonin, tea has also long been employed as a hair colorant in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine². Black tea rinses may temporarily brighten naturally dark hair and lessen the appearance of gray hairs because of its dark pigment. Nutrients that might restore the softness and luster of damaged hair. It keeps split ends from happening. Tea can prevent hair loss. Tea is used to keep things glossy and smooth. Tea comes in a healthy package. It promotes hair growth. It is safe to use black tea on your scalp and hair. Your hair shaft may become dry and damaged as a result of the caffeine in black tea. Due to their high caffeine content, which can help to improve hair color, add shine, and stop shedding, black and green tea are the most often used tea rinses. A natural substitute for artificial hair dye is tea. Tea can still provide color without using all the chemicals, even if it might not produce the same striking effects as conventional hair dye⁴.

F. Hibiscus:

Botanical Name : Hibiscus rosa-sinensis

Fig . Hibiscus powder

It is excellent for promoting the growth of hair. Hibiscus is typically supplemented with calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, vitamin C, riboflavin, and niacin, which promote the growth of thicker hair and prevent premature graying of the hair. Using this flower helps manage dandruff. Hibiscus provides flavonoids, such as anthocyanins and other phenolic chemicals, which have the ability to prevent cancer. It is possible to restore the hair by molding it ². It works wonders for boosting hair growth activity. Hibiscus naturally contains calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, vitamin C2, riboflavin, and niacin, all of which aid to encourage the growth of thicker hair and prevent premature graying. The purpose of this flower is to manage dandruff. Hibiscus produces flavonoids, including anthocyanins and other phenolic chemicals, which give it antioxidant qualities. By conditioning the hair, it can be utilized to revitalize it.¹⁰

G. Indigo powder:

Botanical Name: Indigofera tinctoria

Fig. Indigo Powder

Indigo powder makes each hair strand more grounded while also nourishing and conditioning the hair's foundations. Indigo powder prevents scalp illness, and when combined with coconut oil, it improves the scalp with all the vitamins and makes hair healthier and more grounded². Because of its deep blue-black hue, indigo, a natural dye made from the leaves of the Indigofera tinctoria plant, is frequently used in herbal hair dyes. Indigo, when used to hair dyes, can give the hair rich, cool-toned colors that range from deep browns to striking blacks. Indigo produces a long-lasting color that progressively fades over time by attaching itself to the protein in the hair shaft. Indigo may help create a wider range of hues, including burgundy and brown tones, when combined with henna, another natural dye⁶.

H. Brahmi

Botanical Name: Bacopa monnieri

Fig.Brahmi Powder

Regular application of Brahmi strengthens and maintains your hair roots. There are numerous vitamins in this spice that might benefit your hair. Its molecular structure makes it effective. Brahmi's ability to strengthen cells ensures that the scalp stays clean. Including Brahmi in your washing solution will ensure that your scalp is healthy and free of irritations². By giving colored hair vital nutrients and moisture, Brahmi helps keep it healthy and vibrant. Brahmi's nourishing qualities help avoid the dryness and damage that can come with hair coloring.

Methods of Preparation:

Methods 1:

We have chosen nine essential ingredients, including henna, Reetha, coffee, tea, shikakai, amla, and hibiscus, to make the herbal hair dye. Hibiscus flowers and henna leaves were gathered from PSIT's herbal garden. They were verified for quality in the Institute's Pharmacognosy lab. We purchased reetha, coffee, tea, Shikakai, amla, and Brahmi in powdered form from the local market's approved retailers. Hibiscus flowers and henna leaves were coarsely ground after being shade-dried. Then, to create a homogenous composition, all the elements were combined evenly.

1. All of the ingredients were gathered in powdered form from the local market' approved retailers.

2. Every ingredient was weighed before being run through Sieve No. 24.

3. Next, a homogenous combination of a powdered pigment was created by evenly mixing all the elements.

4. After being weighed, the uniform mixture was placed in a plastic bag².

Method 2:

Preparation of aqueous and alcoholic herbal extracts from powdered drugs

Each of the following was extracted separately using distilled water: two 250gm powders of the whole plant of Eclipta alba, leaves of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, leaves of Lawsonia innermis, fruits of Emblica officinalis, leaves of Coffea arabica, and whole plants of Acacia catechu. The process was then repeated for fresh powder using 95% ethanol for 72hours by cold maceration 6. To obtain dark-colored powder masses (5–10%), all of the extracted materials were vacuum-dried in a steam bath.

Preparation of hair colorants formulation:

The amounts of the aforementioned dried extracts were measured in grams.

To create homogeneous viscous pastes, all of the extract from the aforementioned plants was combined with 25 milliliters of the next solvent (alcohol for alcoholic extractives and water for aqueous extractives)⁷.

Evaluation of the Herbal Hair Dye:

The prepared herbal hair dye was evaluated for its various parameters, such as organoleptic, physico-chemical, phytoconstituents and the rheological aspects.

1. Organoleptic Evaluation:

Organoleptic properties were meticulously recorded for a variety of sensory attributes, such as color, taste, odor, etc. Organoleptic and morphological characteristics, such as color, texture, odor, and appearance, were used to independently examine the raw medications and powders⁸.

Table. Organoleptic evaluation of herbal dye

Sr. No	Parameters	Rusult
1	Colour	Greenish Brown
2	Odour	Characteristics
3	Texture	Fine
4	Appearance	Powder

2. Physico-chemical Evaluation:

The physical and chemical features of the herbal hair dye were evaluated to determine the pH, its moisture content and its ash value for the purpose of stability, compatibility and the amount of inorganic matter present in it.¹³

i. pH: The pH of formulated herbal hair dye was determined using pH meter¹³.

ii. Moisture content: A method commonly used for moisture constant determination is the loss on drying method or LOD. The crude drugs heated at 105oC to constant weight and calculate the total loss of weight¹³.

iii. Total Ash value: The 2 gm of sample was taken in a silica crucible then ignited by gradually increasing the heat to 400oC until it appeared white indicating absence of carbon. It is then cooled in a desiccator and total ash of air dried material is calculated¹³.

3. Patch Test:

This often entails applying a little amount of the hair dye's aqueous solution behind the ear or on the inner elbow in an area measuring 1 cm2 and letting it dry. Any indications of annoyance or a feeling of ill health are documented. The designated area received measured and sparing applications of the prepared hair pack for a predetermined amount of time. Any sign of redness, irritation and swelling were monitored and recorded for up to 24 hr. Table 5 lists the outcomes of tests for irritability symptoms¹⁰.

4. Stability Test:

Stability testing of the prepared formulation was performed by storing it at different temperature conditions for the time period ofone month. The packed formulation were stored at different temperature conditions, viz., room temperature and 35°C and were evaluated for the physical parameters. The prepared dyeformulations were evaluated for the physical parameters like color, odour, pH, texture, and smoothness¹³

5. Phytochemical Evaluation:

a. Molisch’s test:

The Molisch test is a chemical method for detecting the presence of carbohydrates in a material. Test solution preparation: Take 1 g of the sample to be tested and dissolve it in a test tube containing 2 mL distilled water test. Pretreatment or extraction procedures according to the specific sample can be performed. Molisch Reagent Preparation: Prepare the Molisch reagent by adding 1 g of α-Naphthol to 100 mL of ethanol. Mix thoroughly to ensure complete dissolution. Perform the Test: Add a few drops of the prepared test solution to a clean test tube. Carefully add 2-3 mL of the Molisch reagent to the test tube and mix gently by swirling. Add strong sulfuric acid slowly and gently down the edges of the test tube to produce a layer over the mixture. Be careful not to combine the layers. Examine the test tube to see if a violet or purple ring forms at the intersection of the two layers. The formation of a violet or purple ring indicates the presence of carbohydrates in the sample. The color's intensity might change based on the proportion of carbohydrates ¹⁰

b. Volatile oil test:

The volatile oil test is a widely used method for analyzing and identifying essential oils. It involves the utilization of an alcoholic solution of Sudan III as a reagent to detect the presence of volatile oils. When Sudan III is added to a sample, it undergoes a characteristic color change or staining in the presence of volatile oils.This reaction is due to Sudan III affinity for the lipid-based constituents found in essential oils. The intensity the resulting color provides valuable information about the quantity and quality of volatile oils in the sample. The volatile oil test is a simple and rapid qualitative assessment tool used to determine the presence of essential oils in various natural products, including plants and herbs.

The procedure for conducting the volatile oil test involves the Preparation of Sudan III Solution: Prepare a solution of Sudan III dye in ethanol or a suitable alcohol solvent at a specified concentration. Test Sample Preparation: Obtain the sample suspected to contain volatile oils, such as a plant extract, herbal material, or any substance believed to contain essential oils. Place a small portion of the test sample in a clean test tube or on a spotting plate. Add a few drops of the prepared alcoholic Sudan III to the sample.

Observation: Observe the sample for any changes in color or staining effects that occur upon the addition of Sudan III solution. The presence of volatile oils typically results in the development of a distinct color, often ranging from orange-red to reddish-brown.

Interpretation: To ascertain if volatile oils are present in the sample or not, compare the staining or color seen with established standards or references¹⁰

c. Mayer’s Test (For Alkaloid):

Weigh 5 g of Potassium Iodide (KI) and 1.358g of mercuric chloride using a precise balance. Dissolve the weighted potassium iodide in 60mL of distilled water in a clean container. Stir the solution in order to completely dissolve the KI. Add the mercuric chloride to the KI solution while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the mercuric chloride is completely dissolved. Once the solution is homogeneous, take a small amount of finely powdered sample and place it in a test tube. Add a few drops of Mayer’s reagent to the test tube using a dropper or pipette. Observe the color change in the test tube. The presence of alkaloids in the sample will result in the formation of a creamy precipitate or turbidity within a few minutes. Compare the test tube with a control tube containing distilled water and Mayer’s reagent. The control tube should remain clear, indicating the absence of alkaloids¹⁰.

5. Rheological Evaluation:

For the internal formulation, physical parameters including angle of repose, bulk or untapped density, tapped density, Housner's Ratio, and Carr's index were measured and calculated. The formula for computing bulk Density (D) is D=M/V, where M is the mass of the particles and V is the total volume, they fill. This is measured with a graduated cylinder. 100 g of the weighted formulation were added to the cylinder using a funnel. Following the recording of the starting volume, the sample was extensively tapped. The bulk density value was obtained by comparing the starting volume with the volume identified after tapping. This value was then utilized to calculate the tapped density. The angle of repose measures the powder's flow properties since it affects how cohesive the different particles are with one another. The fixed funnel cone method is utilized to determine the Height (H) above the paper that is put on a level surface. The pack was slowly poured into the funnel until the peak formed. In this case, an is the angle of repose, and tan is equal to either H/R or arc tan H/R. R stands for the radius of the conical heap. Housner's Ratio is connected to the powder flow and is influenced by the antiparticle friction¹⁰.

i. Angle of Repose: Angle of repose was determined using the funnel to estimate the flow behavior of the sample and it was determined by using the formula;

Tan a = H/R

Where,

a = angle of repose;

H = height of the pile of powder;

R = radius of the pile of powder².

ii. Determination of bulk density and tapped density: Bulk density and tapped density was determined by placing the cylinder containing sample (W1) in bulk density apparatus and the volume was noted as V1 (ml), then the apparatus adjusted for 100 tapping and operated. The volume occupied by the powder as V2 (ml) was recorded.

Bulk Density = Mass/Bulk volume = W1/ V1 g/ml

Tapped Density = Mass/Tapped volume = W1/ V2 g/ml²

iii. Hausner’s ratio:

Hausner’s ratio is the ease of index of powder flow and calculated by using following formula:

Hausner’s ratio = Tap density/Bulk density²

iv. Carr’s index:

Percent compressibility of blend was determined by Carr’s compressibility index, which was calculated by using following formula:

Carr’s index = Tap density – Bulk density × 100 Tap density²

CONCLUSION:

The current review aimed to formulate herbal based natural hair dye with reduced adverse effects. A Herbal hair dye colors the hair in gentle manner. The advantage of herbal cosmetics is their non- toxic nature. Herbal formulations are in great demand to fulfill the needs of the growing world market. It is a noticeable attempt to formulate the herbal hair pack containing the goodness of powders of different plants, which are excellent for hair care. Hair dye containing Henna, Amla, Reetha, Brahmi, Tea, Hibiscus etc. Nutrifies the skin of the scalp and hair. Pollution, ageing, stress and harsh climates badly affect the quality of hair. Natural remedies are widely accepted with open hands nowadays as they are safer with minimal side effects as compared to the chemical based products. This hair formulation provides vital nourishment to the hair. It helps to treat dandruff by removal of excess oil from scalp.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

Authors have to say thanks to guide Ms. Aneri V. Adsul (Asst. Professor. Dept. of Pharmaceutics, Yspm’s YTC, Satara), Prof. Dasharath Sagare (President), Prof. Ajinkya Sagare (Vice President), Prof. (Dr. V.K.Redsani (Principal, Yspm,s YTC, Satara) for his constructive suggestions, meticulous support and constant motivation. Above all I would like to thank My Parents for showering their infinite bounty, clemencies and graces upon me. To them I owe a lifelong indebtedness. I am especially grateful to dear friends Resham Ingawale, Sanskruti Nalawade, Sayali Zanje, Akshata Kale, Vaishnavi Salunkhe, and Nikita Sawant. At last but not the least I am humbly grateful to all those peoples who directly or indirectly played role of a catalyst to bring out the lovely reaction of this research.

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Received on 14.02.2025 Revised on 29.04.2025

Accepted on 05.05.2025 Published on 30.10.2025

Available online from November 08, 2025

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2025; 16(2):149-156.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2025.00023

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Creative Commons License.